Merz's practical cutting system for ladies' jackets and cloaks .. by Merz William

Author:Merz, William. [from old catalog]
Language: eng
Format: epub, pdf
Tags: Tailoring (Women's) [from old catalog]
Publisher: [New York?] W. Merz
Published: 1911-03-25T05:00:00+00:00

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Diagram XV. CLOSE-FITTED, FROCK-COAT SKIRT.

To draft the skirt separate, draw a straight line for the front center, as M, V and 46. Square in the waist line from M to N; the hip line from V to W, which is 5^ inches from M: then the length, 46, which is 20j4 inches from the level waist line, M. From M to N is 3/5 waist. Draw the line from N to 7 and 6 parallel with the previous line. After having swept out the waist, hip and length lines as explained in previous diagram, and the lines drawn, lay the front part, the level waist line, N, to the skirt draft, N, even with the front center to draw the line from d to F. Do the same with the underarm pieces, D to J. Draw the line from D to T with the hip run of th.e side piece, and from F to U with the hip run of the underarm piece. Cut the skirt out from d to F. D, J, S, 45, 46 and to d. Fold the skirt in the lines F, U to 47, and D, T to 48. Cut the lines from F to U and from D to hip line, T.

To draft the first dart, lay the pattern upon another piece of paper and draw from the corner, 46, to d, and from (/ to F. To keep the pattern on the lines, put weights upon it. Spread the cut E from F Vio ''■'P i/4 inches for 20 hip, and lay the pattern flat into a pleat from U to 47, and draw the dart from U to F, and from U to E, and to D. Put weights upon this part and spread C from D V24 'lip M inch for this draft and lay the pattern flat from T to 48. Draw the dart from T to D, from T to C, and all around from C to J. 45. 46. From 46 to 45 curve the line as represented.

The spreading of the darts. F to E and D to C, is only good for this style of draft. For example, if the skirt seam is between F and U and D and T, the dart spreading from F to E and D to C would be half the amount.

This kind of skirt is to be worn for street costume.

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